In 1879, Thomas Burberry, a former draper’s apprentice, invented gabardine, a tightly woven cloth that kept out rain but still breathed. The trench coat grew out of that fabric, and nearly 150 years later it remains the most useful coat in a fall wardrobe. Knowing how to style a trench coat comes down to two things, the outfit underneath and the fit of the coat itself. Here are five ways to wear one, followed by what to check before you buy.
A short history of the trench
According to the Burberry heritage timeline, Thomas Burberry opened his first shop in Basingstoke in 1856, at 21. He patented gabardine in 1888. In 1912, he patented the Tielocken coat, which, the timeline says, is widely regarded as the forerunner of the trench.
Then came the First World War. Burberry says the trench was developed for military use between 1914 and 1918, and that more than 500,000 were worn. Many of the details on a classic trench today come from that period, including the epaulettes, the D-rings, the storm shield, and the gun flap. The check arrived later, in the 1920s, as a lining.
In 1972, Burberry’s timeline says, the company formally acquired its factory in Castleford, Yorkshire, where all of its Heritage Trench Coats are made. And this year, 170 years after that first shop, the brand is marking its anniversary.
How to style a trench coat, five ways
Each of these outfits starts from the same classic belted coat. So the coat stays constant, and only what you wear underneath changes.
With jeans and a T-shirt
This is the everyday version. Pair the trench with straight jeans, a plain white or striped T-shirt, and loafers or clean sneakers. Leave the coat open and let the belt hang loose at the back. Because the outfit underneath is simple, the coat does all the work.
With a slip skirt and a knit
Next, try the contrast of soft and structured. A satin slip skirt, a fine-gauge sweater, and ankle boots look polished under a trench. Here, tie the belt at the waist instead of buckling it, so the coat moves with the skirt.
Over a suit
A trench over tailoring is the office classic. Choose a suit in navy, gray, or a darker neutral, and let the coat fall just past the jacket hem. For a cleaner line, buckle the belt or leave it untied entirely, rather than knotting it.
With a knit dress and boots
For a softer weekend look, wear the trench over a ribbed knit dress and knee-high boots. Belt it firmly at the waist. Then turn up the collar, especially if the weather turns.
For evening
Finally, the trench works after dark too. Wear it over a black dress or wide trousers with a silk top, and keep the coat open. Add one strong accessory, such as statement earrings or a heel. In this case, the coat reads as a cape more than as rainwear.
The coat stays constant, and only what you wear underneath changes.
Layering as the weather turns
Knowing how to style a trench coat in October is different from wearing one in April. As temperatures drop, the coat needs room underneath. So size with layers in mind, and try the coat on over a sweater, not a T-shirt.
A fine merino or cashmere knit fits under most trenches without bulk. A hooded sweatshirt, on the other hand, gives the coat a casual, off-duty mood. Add a scarf tucked inside the collar for warmth. Then, once it gets truly cold, a trench can sit over a thin quilted vest or liner jacket.
Color beyond khaki
Classic honey and khaki shades go with almost everything, which is why they dominate. However, a black trench looks sharper in the evening, and navy is an easy match for tailoring. If you already own a khaki coat, a second trench in a darker shade gives you more ways to wear the same shape.
Belt tricks worth knowing
Once you know how to style a trench coat with different outfits, the belt is the next lever. It changes the coat more than anything else. Buckled, it looks formal and neat. Knotted at the front, it looks relaxed. Tied at the back, it pulls in the waist while leaving the front open. Also try wrapping the belt once around the waist and tucking the end in, which gives a clean line without a buckle.
How to check the fit
Learning how to style a trench coat starts with buying one that fits. First, check three points before you think about color.
Shoulders
The shoulder seam should sit at the edge of your shoulder, or just past it if you plan to layer heavy knits underneath. If the seam falls well down the arm, the coat will look borrowed.
Sleeve length
With your arms relaxed, the sleeve should reach the base of your thumb or a little past the wrist bone. Also lift your arms forward. If the sleeve rides up past the wrist, try the next size.
Belt position
The belt loops should land at your natural waist, or slightly above it. If they sit low, the coat will look long in the body even when the length is right. So try it with the belt tied, not just open.
Silhouettes to know
Burberry’s trench craft page names each Heritage shape after an area of London. For example, the Kensington is a classic fit with structured shoulders, while the Chelsea is cut close to the body. The Waterloo is long with softer, curved shoulders. The Fitzrovia is a relaxed A-line with fuller sleeves. There is also the Mayfair, a cropped trench jacket, and the Camden, a car coat. Even if you shop elsewhere, these names describe the main shapes well.
Fabric and care basics
The classic trench is cut from gabardine, the cloth Burberry patented. It keeps out rain and still breathes, which is why a trench works in changeable weather. Burberry also makes coats in tropical gabardine, which it calls its lightest signature fabric.
For care, follow the care label. Some trenches need dry cleaning while others can go in the wash, so check before you clean. Hang the coat on a wide wooden hanger so the shoulders keep their shape. Between wears, brush off dust and let it air-dry fully if it gets wet. Burberry also offers aftercare services for its own coats.
For more seasonal pieces, see our fall shopping list. And for what the runways showed this month, read our Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 coverage.
How to style a trench coat: questions, answered
What should I wear under a trench coat?
Almost anything, and that range is most of how to style a trench coat. Jeans and a T-shirt, a slip skirt and knit, a suit, and a knit dress with boots all work. The trench sits over each one without changing its shape.
Should a trench coat be belted?
It depends on the look. Buckle it for a formal line, knot it for a relaxed one, or leave it open. Each option changes how to style a trench coat for the day.
How should a trench coat fit?
The shoulder seam should sit at your shoulder edge, the sleeves should reach the base of your thumb, and the belt should land at your natural waist.
What is a trench coat made of?
The classic trench uses gabardine, a tightly woven, breathable, rain-resistant fabric that Thomas Burberry invented in 1879.
How do I care for a trench coat?
Follow the care label, use a wide hanger, and let the coat dry fully after rain.
Hang it by the door on a wide wooden hanger, belt tied loosely, so it is ready for the first wet morning.