Dior’s invitation was a pair of walnuts. The house sent them out ahead of Jonathan Anderson’s show, and by the time Louis Vuitton closed the calendar on Tuesday night, Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 had added birds, gold, and a great many skirts. The women’s ready-to-wear shows ran from September 28 to October 6, according to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. We did not attend, so every judgment below comes from the critics and buyers who did, with links to their reviews.
The mood of Paris Fashion Week spring 2027
Overall, the buyers were happy. “The week has been superlative,” Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and store presentation director at Bergdorf Goodman, told Vogue. “The stakes were really high, and I think the houses and designers more than met the challenge.”
Vogue‘s Laure Guilbault framed the week as a set of shows “grounded in reality,” staged against economic uncertainty and continued upheaval inside the industry. The PR figure Lucien Pagès put it plainly to Vogue: “Designers are striving to make reality desirable.”
The reality at Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 had a temperature, too. Vogue noted the unexpected warmth of October in Paris, and lightness became the thread that critics kept pulling. Wallpaper saw the same pursuit at Hermès, Dior, and Louis Vuitton.
Dior: walnuts and weightless tailoring
The invitation
These were wénwán walnuts, Monocle reports. Owners roll these nuts in the hand until, over time, they take on a jade-like patina. Wallpaper adds that reaching that lustre can take more than five years, which is why the practice has a meditative side.
Both magazines, in fact, read the walnuts as a message about time. Monocle wrote that Anderson was “clearly concerned with touch, time and imperfection.” Wallpaper saw a metaphor for patience, apt for a couture house and for a designer one year past his first Dior womenswear show.
The clothes
Anderson showed at Le Bassin Octagonal in the Jardin des Tuileries, revisiting the location of his fall 2026 collection, per Monocle. Tailoring became transparent and fluid, and the Bar jacket softened. Hand-cut petals were scattered across the dresses and looked, in Monocle‘s words, “as if they had just blown in.”
Wallpaper went further on the fabrics. There, Anderson reimagined heavy tailoring wools in featherweight trompe l’oeil organza. His shrunken Bar jacket also returned, here with a contrasting collar. There was also a swan-shaped metal evening bag. Monocle‘s verdict: the collection was “still recognisably Dior but a little less buttoned-up.”
Chanel: birds and the 2.55
Chanel showed on October 5 at the Grand Palais, where Matthieu Blazy marked a year at the house. Monocle describes giant white birds hanging from the glass ceiling while models walked beneath their outstretched wings. The show was “an abundance of feathers, frills and ruffles,” Monocle wrote, along with a newly engineered smocked tweed.
Still, the opening image drew the most attention. Model Dyanira Hurbuscher carried Gabrielle Chanel’s own 2.55 bag, retrieved from the house’s Patrimoine archives, Wallpaper reports. She opened the show and then closed it. In between, the collection drew on the founder’s changing personal style across her lifetime, Wallpaper notes. “[This collection is] about the women within a woman,” Blazy told Wallpaper.
Blazy sent out 83 looks, each with a different pair of heels.
The shoes mattered as well. Since Blazy’s first show, Vogue reports, the house has seen a full-blown frenzy for its cap-toed heels. This time, Blazy sent out 83 looks, each with a different pair of heels. For our full review, read Chanel spring 2027. Our guide to watching Paris Fashion Week lists where the houses stream their shows.
Saint Laurent’s gold snake shoe
Anthony Vaccarello’s show marked his 10th year at Saint Laurent, Vogue notes. Then Charlotte Gainsbourg, a longtime friend of the designer, closed it with a performance.
Wallpaper describes a runway lined with enormous chandeliers in the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Save for a few closing gowns in black, Vaccarello rendered the collection in gold. The trench, the safari jacket, brocade tailoring, and ruffled blouses all came in golden hues. “Gold, magical and mythical, can alchemically transform everything it touches,” Vaccarello said, per Wallpaper.
Then came the accessory of the week. “The gold snake shoe at Saint Laurent was the talk of the town,” the luxury consultant Roopal Patel told Vogue. She also named Chanel, Givenchy, and Dior among the houses with great shoes. Vogue adds that shoes are becoming a key category, partly as an entry point to luxury for shoppers priced out of the heritage brands.
The season of the skirt
If Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 had one garment, it was the skirt. “It’s definitely the season of the skirt. There have been more skirts this season than I’ve ever seen before,” Patel told Vogue.
Fargo, for her part, pointed to Dries Van Noten as an important show for the trend. She also singled out Valentino, where an elaborate skirt arrived paired with a plaid shirt. “It’s in the styling and the mixing,” she said.
Monocle described knee-length skirts at Dries Van Noten, where Julian Klausner had an actress “like Grace Kelly” in mind. Meanwhile, Alix Morabito of Galeries Lafayette summed up the direction for Vogue: “a lot of skirts, bras and fluid fabrics.”
Lingerie, lightness, and air
Lingerie as outerwear
Vogue tracked lingerie across several houses. At Tom Ford, for instance, Haider Ackermann showed structured bullet bras and high-cut swimsuits. Similarly, at Jean Paul Gaultier, Duran Lantink worked the house’s cone bras into many looks. Likewise, Antonin Tron sent out bras, corsets, and satin garter skirts at Balmain.
Clothes that breathe
At Hermès, Nadège Vanhée let in air after a summer of record heat in Paris, Monocle reports. There was open-weave knitwear, clothing with vents, and trousers and skirts that zip or unzip to change length with the temperature.
At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière presented an ultralight collection at Paris Fashion Week spring 2027, Vogue reports. He told Vogue that making things extremely light “is very complex.” Asked whether the summer’s heat wave had changed how he thinks about design, he said it “has had a strong influence.” “It’s almost like you have to weigh the clothes now to think they can be relevant for today and for the future,” he said.
Two debuts at Paris Fashion Week spring 2027
After a season with a record wave of new designers, this one had only two debuts, Vogue notes: Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven.
At Courrèges, Wallpaper saw an optimist. Henry worked with lime, vermilion, and the house’s bright white, borrowing archival shapes like the go-go boot and the Mod A-line. At Carven, Monocle described a collection that opened in a cloud of pastels and moved into black and white. Monocle notes that Nesselrath looked to Madame Carven as a woman who worked with her hands. Pencil shavings became golden earrings, and the models wore polished pencils in their hair.
Other Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 shows to know
Several more collections at Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 earned strong notices from the critics.
Givenchy
Sarah Burton challenged notions of female archetypes, Monocle wrote, with silhouettes that consider “the many versions of women.” Accessories included a belt buckle that opens into a compact mirror. Burton gave Wallpaper a short explanation: “I wanted a sense of balance and clarity.”
Celine
Michael Rider’s Celine came up again and again. Patel, for example, praised its “phenomenal details” to Vogue. Designer Thakoon Panichgul called it “completely commercial, but in a way, that was really beautiful.” Wallpaper singled out the accessories, from sized-up belts and accordion handbags to two-tone pumps.
Miu Miu
This year brought Miu Miu’s fifth New Balance collaboration, Monocle reports, reworking the RC150 racing sneaker. Wrangler also joined, with upcycled vintage denim.
Loewe
Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez looked to history as Loewe marked its 180th anniversary, Monocle reports. Wallpaper describes an in-the-round arena on the grounds of the Château de Vincennes, with striped skirts woven from glass beads. “How does this new Loewe language become a wardrobe?” the designers asked in Wallpaper.
Valentino
Alessandro Michele took over the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève and asked guests to bring a book to donate to local libraries, Vogue reports. Wallpaper notes the collection’s title, Antilibrary, a reference to Umberto Eco’s idea that unread books hold the most possibility. “A library is a masterpiece,” Michele told Vogue.
Chloé
Wallpaper singled out a midway parade of raincoats from Chemena Kamali, starting with a white one draped across the shoulders like a poncho. Monocle highlighted the cotton broderie anglaise across the line-up.
Matières Fécales
The week opened at Place de la République with 99 looks from Hannah Rose Dalton and Steven Raj Bhaskaran, Vogue reports. Fargo called it “a standout moment of the week.”
Celine Dion, off the runway
At Paris Fashion Week spring 2027, the biggest celebrity never sat front row. Paris Fashion Week coincided with Celine Dion’s Paris residency, Vogue reports. Some show-goers went to La Défense Arena to see her and then turned up at the shows wearing her merchandise.
Instead, Dion performed at the L’Oréal Paris show. She was also photographed outside the Royal Monceau in several looks, including a tailored outfit from Sarah Burton’s spring 2027 Givenchy collection. “Her hotel is the new runway,” Pagès joked to Vogue.
The finale at Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton closed the week on October 6 in the Cour Carrée du Louvre, Wallpaper reports. The set evoked a motorway, complete with crash barriers, with 34 futuristic cars hovering above it. Vogue credits the set to designer James Chinlund. The collection, titled Ergonomie, set ultralight tailoring against that heavy scene.
“In the chaos we are all living in, there’s a moment where everyone is trying to find a way,” Ghesquière told Vogue.
Paris Fashion Week spring 2027: quick answers
When was Paris Fashion Week spring 2027?
The women’s ready-to-wear shows ran from September 28 to October 6, 2026, per the FHCM.
What were the biggest trends?
At Paris Fashion Week spring 2027, critics and buyers cited skirts, lingerie-inspired pieces, and lightweight fabrics, according to Vogue, Monocle, and Wallpaper.
What was the shoe of the season?
Saint Laurent’s gold snake shoe, which Roopal Patel called “the talk of the town.”
Who debuted this season?
Drew Henry at Courrèges and Kai Nesselrath at Carven.
Which show closed the week?
Louis Vuitton, at the Cour Carrée du Louvre, on the evening of October 6.
Two walnuts, a flock of birds, and one gold shoe: that is Paris Fashion Week spring 2027 in three objects.